Alba, Piedmont: What I Love About this Region
What can I say about Alba in Piedmont except that I truly love this tiny city in the northern Italy region of Piemonte (known as Piedmont in English)?
Full of charm, great food, friendly locals, and excellent coffee, Alba epitomizes the perfect small, walkable, and picturesque Italian city I always dreamt of living in. It also happens to be in my favorite Italian wine region, Piedmont.
The streets in Alba are never crowded or raucous. The city is safe at any time of day or night at any time of year.
And, while the citizens of Alba may go to bed early during winter months-leaving the streets empty and devoid of life, it is also equally common on those crisp silent nights to find the streets filled with the aroma of chocolate. You heard that right. This city smells like chocolate!!!!! And hazelnut. At the same time. A pleasant side effect of being home to Ferrero Rocher, whose factory is just outside the center and employs as many people than would make up the entire population of Alba otherwise.
The actual city center is so small you can walk from any point to another in no more than 20 minutes and most places are within 6-10 minutes from the absolute center. But the small size of this city doesn’t require you to sacrifice amazing restaurants, wine bars, and cafes. Like most cities located within prestigious wine regions, Alba boasts much better cuisine and a far higher number of excellent restaurants and wine bars than would typically be expected of a city this size elsewhere.
So where do you start if you want to experience the best that Alba has to offer?
Start with a walk, from the Piazza Risorgimento (or Piazza del Duomo) in the center, where you can enjoy views of Alba’s Cathedral (or Duomo) before meandering down any nearby street. It’s not important which street you take. You will not get lost and you have time to explore every street in the center in just a couple of hours. Take your time, stop for an espresso, hot chocolate, or glass of wine at one of the many charming cafes or bars and start contemplating where you’re going to eat your next meal.
My Favorite Places for Coffee or a Treat in Alba, Piedmont
T Ristoro
My favorite thing about T Ristoro is EVERYTHING. It’s beautiful inside and out (reminiscent of a Parisian Cafe) and is a great time to stop any time of day (though they don’t open until late morning) for everything from a quick coffee and baked treat (they almost always have one gluten-free option) to a series of coffees while you sit and work on your laptop during quiet daytime hours to a glass of wine and small plate of food in the evenings (drinks come with a generous aperitivo selection during certain hours).
The cherry on the cake? Their staff is warm and welcoming as well as knowledgeable and professional (especially the young reddish-blonde haired gal who is studying hospitality-I can’t remember her name but she is a doll!).
Caffè Teatro
Another gorgeous cafe, Caffè Teatro is a snug little cafe meant for either a quick macchiato or espresso sipped standing up at the bar or for ‘una pausa’ to sip chocolate or eat cake at one of the tiny ornate tables. Their prices are a bit above average, and it is not a place that encourages wiling away the hours but the staff are helpful (I came in seeking help charging my phone and the woman behind the bar walked me over to a nearby shop where her friend plugged my phone in for me with her wall charger) and it’s beautiful.
On a sunny day, the outdoor tables here are a favored place to sit and sip a cappuccino or nibble your croissant in view of both the Duomo (straight ahead if you are sitting in front with your back to the cafe) and the charming San Domenico church (a hundred feet to your left if facing Caffè Teatro).
Cafe Monviso
This tiny spot is tucked away through an archway and in a small alley. Popular for quick espressos or chats, there is almost always a table open for those who want a place to sit and work. Charming ambiance. Friendly proprietors, nice coffee (though not the best in town) and super reasonable prices.
My Favorite Places to Drink Wine in Alba Piedmont
Ape Wine Bar
This uber-popular wine bar and restaurant in the Piazza Duomo takes up almost the entire block. And, while I like the wines by the glass selection better at other bars in the city, I do have to admit that this is the wine bar with the most ‘Italian friendly’ layout. Italians love sitting in piazzas sipping coffee or wine and chatting with friends. This is why Ape Wine Bar is so popular.
Plus, they’ve got a very nice menu (small plates or dinner) and professional staff and you are much more likely to see that handsome Italian man you noticed sitting at the cafe this morning if you are out in the main piazza of the city. Literally, anyone who is out in Alba for any reason will stop in or pass through this piazza at some point.
T Ristoro
As mentioned above, T Ristoro is a lovely spot for any kind of beverage including wine. They’ve got a decent-sized list of by the glass selections with a good range of selections from locally produced sparkling and white wines to local and nearly local red wines. They are happy to let you try a taste of a couple of things to help you decide which you want to order. I actually found T Ristoro’s by the glass wine list more interesting (maybe small-but good choices and from small producers) than some of the wine bars I frequented in Alba!
Voglia di Vino
While Voglia di Vino might have a slightly more subdued ambiance than Ape, it is the most ‘wine bar-ish’ wine bar in Alba, in my opinion. I like my wine bars small and intimate and with a good selection of the kinds of wines I want to drink on the menu in addition to staff who will allow me to try everything before I order.
If you want just a glass of wine, grab a seat at the bar or outside on the patio. If you’d like to eat a little something or have dinner, take one of the tables in the bar or restaurant area (reservations strongly advised if you are visiting on a weekend or any night in summer at the typical Italian dinner hour). The food here is excellent. I’ve never had a plate that was anything less than very good. This is the quintessential high-end-ish wine bar in ambiance, vibe, and list size (though they shrink down the by-the-glass offerings during winter).
If you come to this wine bar please be sure to say hi to Valentina and Simona for me! They are sisters who work together at the wine bar and are lovely.
Where to Eat in Alba Piedmont
For elevated gastronomic experiences at top-notch restaurants featuring talented chefs try Piazza Duomo (a Michelin-starred restaurant that needs to be booked far in advance) or Larossa.
For a menu that features simple dishes intended to show off the local truffles (handmade pasta, egg dishes, risotto…) in a comfortable environment try Osteria Dell Arco in Piazza Michele Ferrero, which is open for both lunch and dinner.
For a simple dinner at a place that locals fill every night to eat ‘like at mama’s house’ try Osteria dei Sognatori. Usually, there is no menu-they just tell you what they have (for appetizers, first courses, and mains), you choose what you want, and they serve it. Small and casual (like a taverna)-with good wines by the bottle list. *This is not fine dining. If you are looking for a high-end polished restaurant with Riedel glassware and attentive sommeliers, this is not that kind of place.
Where to Shop (for Food) in Alba Piedmont
The Saturday covered market (mercato) in Piazza Marconi is THE best place to shop for everything you need to make an amazing meal. From flowers, fruits, and veggies to handmade pasta, cheeses, salumi, and even spit-roasted meats and fried treats the mercato is foodie heaven.
Note: there is another market held in this same location on Tuesday mornings that is a bit smaller (no roasted meats or fresh ravioli stands on Tuesdays…).
Where to Stay in Alba Piedmont
When it comes to deciding where to stay in Alba, Piedmont I highly recommend booking an apartment in or near the center of Alba if you love feeling like a local, cooking some of your own meals, and spending less per night than you’d spend on a hotel. I’ve rented two very nice apartments in the center for less than 60 Euros/night via Airbnb.
However, if you are only staying a short time and prefer a hotel experience, with no cooking responsibilities (Alba makes it easy to eat out happily for every meal!), these are wonderful options: