Waking up in Sanxenxo
The next morning in Sanxenxo we opted to sleep in til late morning, and then congregate at the nearby Cafe California for cafe con leches, breakfast bocadillos and pan con tomate (toasted baguette with tomato sauce and olive oil) before heading to our tasting appointment at DO Ferreiro. DO Ferreiro is a nearby vineyard producing Albariño (like all vineyards in Rias Baixas, a classified growing region or wine appellation in Galicia).
Bodega DO Ferreiro (aka Bodega Gerardo Mendez):
Arriving to the stone house and small estate lined with rows of parra trained vineyards (a way of training the vines high on wire trellises anchored by granite posts creating a sort of canopy that helps air flow, prevents mildew and ensures even ripening) at DO Ferreiro we noticed how quickly the morning had warmed up. A day that had started out misty, cool and cloudy had turned suddenly and brilliantly sunny and warm. Just a demonstration of the unique conditions that make Rias Baixas, with its high rainfall and cool temperatures mixed with salt air and sun, so special.
While stopping for photos in front of the old stone buildings (horreos), we were greeted by Manuel (Gerardo Mendez’s son). After introductions he took us straight into the cellar for a little barrel/aging talk and some relief from the sun before walking out into (and underneath) their Albariño vines.
Like most vineyards in the white grape dominated Rias Baixas appellation, the Mendez Family grow only Albariño grapes. And, since we visited just before harvest season, the grapes we tasted were full of bracing acidity and bright fresh stone fruit flavors, but they still hadn’t reached full phenolic ripeness.
Only when the fruitiness and lush ripeness matches the racy acidity and the pips and stalks (the innards of the grape) are nice and dry and crunchy and brown (no green left) will they harvest the grapes.
After telling us a bit about his family history (he is only the third generation in his family to be in the wine business as Rias Baixas has not been a classified growing region very long) Manuel took us into the stone house for tasting. We tasted the two wines that he and his father make (under the DO Ferreiro label), with us. The first, their classic un-oaked Albariño, was their main product making up 90% of the wine that they produce and sell. The second, was their oak barrel aged Albariño (9 months in neutral French oak). This is a wine that they produce only about 100 cases of (sold within Spain) and of which they had none left to sell at the time we were there.
Both wines were delicious, high in acidity but well rounded and complex enough to hold up to heavier and meatier seafoods like the rich pulpo, mejillones, fried sardines, or heavy seafood rice stews so typically eaten in Galicia. The oaked version was, as expected, the more complex of the two and clearly would be fine with a few more years of age while the younger un-oaked Albariño had, like most other un-oaked wines in the region (which are the majority) been made to drink more immediately and while as fresh as possible.
We took three bottles with us to drink over the rest of the weekend, and got a list from Manuel of the shops in Madrid that sell his wine before getting on the road to our next tasting appointment.
Bodega Santiago Roma:
We drove only 10 minutes or so from DO Ferreiro before reaching Bodega Santiago Roma, where we were ushered in by Señor Roma, who opened the gate for us. He had been expecting us, and launched quite quickly into the story of his vineyards, family (he’s the third generation in his family to run the business) and international business (he is exported into the U.S but as of yet only to the East Coast).
Santiago’s facility was much larger, as well as more technologically advanced than DO Ferreiro and it was clear that he places a strong focus on business growth and export (most vineyards need to export at least something but how much they export, and to how many countries varies by size).
After a walk through the cellar we were again, ushered out to walk underneath the canopy of vines that surrounded the winery, as Santiago told us more about his philosophy and the Rias Baixas growing region. His pride in his region was clear. He told us that his wines are, most importantly, Rias Baixas Albariño.
The Baixas appellation, according to Santiago, is the absolute best for the grape, and produces Albariños that have flavors and qualities unique to this appellation and no other. The incredible proximity to the ocean and the heavy influence of the salinity in the air in addition to the moist climate year round and the granite rich soil create a terroir that cannot be repeated elsewhere.
His passion for his livelihood was clear, but so was his business savvy. Santiago showed us his new label designs (designed for international markets) and proudly listed the many countries in Europe to which his wines are exported.
Though he has a son, he doesn’t know if his son will end up in the wine business. He would like him to go to university and these days, making a living off of the land (especially for multiple generations at once), is challenging.
After tasting his three wines with him back inside the winery, our group’s overwhelming favorite was his old vine (which has a black label) Albariño. We took a magnum of it home with us to pair with our mejillones that evening (mussels).
After stopping for a quick lunch of pulpo, fried sardines and more wine we walked to the local fisherman’s market in Sanxenxo to collect our mussels and clams for dinner that evening and then all disappeared for a much needed siesta.
Dinner was a classically Galician affair: nothing but fresh seafood (mussels and clams cooked in a big pot without water so they can steam themselves), bread, a simply dressed salad, and Albariño. After which, we went out for another night in Sanxenxo.
The next day was our last, and suffice to say, no one got up very early in the morning (‘morning’ being noon in Sanxenxo). We spent the day luxuriating in our lack of plans on the beach, had a long and late lunch with plenty of wine and then headed to the airport for our flight back to Madrid.
It was a brief trip, but just what we needed. An escape from the wilting heat in Madrid (which always feels so much more miserably hot due to the big looming buildings and heavy closed air), some beach time, good wine, and great company.
Sounds like you had a great time, great food and amazing views! Wasn’t it really hot to walk under the sun? I can only imagine that for the time of the year it must have been pretty tough but at the same time you post shows that it was totally worth it. Definitely a place I would like to visit in the near future.
Hi Miriam-yes it was hot! But the unique environment was something special to behold. I’d never seen this way of pruning vines in person (only studied it back when I was studying winemaking). The wines are spectacular and the people warm and friendly. I def recommend it!
A short but delicious trip.Good food and good wine always are a good combo.Interesting how the younger generations are encouraged to go to study further.Thanks for sharing this region.
Sounds like such a relaxed way of spending a holiday…experiencing the area and the atmosphere like a local! Refreshing and unusual.
Hi,
Looks exciting to spend a long weekend in vineyards and experience the local living. I would like to know how they create their signature wine (do they have a demo class?), techniques on picking the perfect grape for harvesting, etc. I think that’s exciting.
Lovely account of the vineyard. I think the stories that go along with these businesses is what makes the whole tour unique and fun. The place is so green and beautiful too. Glad you had a good time
Sounds like you had a great time! Your post reminded me my last trip to St. Augustine vineyards and winery and had an amazing time there!
These wine tours are mesmerizing for all senses. Add to that you get a lot of photo opportunity too. 😛 🙂 My mouth is watering reading the combo of fried sardines and wine. Great experience for sure! 🙂
Wine, Seafood and Sun is a great combination. This looks like a cool place to be in. Although Im not a great fancy for seafood and wine, I would love to try out the sun and the surroundings 🙂
Your enthusiasm for wine certainly comes through in the prose! I like the way that this family is *only* the third generation of wine makers–outside of Europe, that would be a lot. You got a fantastic entry into that part of Spain.
Half of my family comes from a little town in the border of Galicia and I have been there plenty of times. I have to say that I love that region, the food… and the people are quite unique too. Anyway, you were very lucky to actually see the sun while there!
WOW, Galicia is an amazing place to visit. This is what I really love about Spain, you could visit vineyards, get some wine of your choice. Which of course will taste better because you know the history or even legends behind it. And then go and choose your seafood to have with the wine. Life is beautiful!
Looks like you had a great time tasting the different flavors. It was glad to know how these people run the business with so much passion. We would definitely love to visit them, thanks for the recommendation and all the detailed information in the post.
Three generations seems like a lot but at the same time so little! Señor Roma certainly does have a lot of passion for his art but good business sense. I hope his son manages to go to uni and also help balance out his passions with running the family business. Great post, it looked so lovely to be walking under the grape vines.
I agree that Madrid is brutally hot. But I would love to go on a wine tour of Galicia. I’ve grown to enjoy Spanish wines a lot since traveling around Spain and now I look for them in the US!
You had me at the title! My idea of a perfect getaway is sun, wine, and seafood. I have never been to Galicia but I would definitely want to explore it some day. I have never had pulpo so this would be one of the first food items I would seek out when I finally get to visit.
Looks like an amazing trip. Love the photos and the wine and food sound delicious. Although I am too much of a light weight when it comes to drinking to enjoy alcohol very often, I love walking through the vineyards!
What a wonderful combination… especially wine and seafood. I was really interested by the description of the wines you tasted. I noted the bodegas’ names for the time I will be visiting Galicia.
What a great exploration of this area of Italy! Looks like the scenery was perfect for a photo back drop and the wine look incredible!
Being a wine enthusiast myself, I would love to go on a vineyard and wine tasting tour someday. It was really interesting to read about the two vineyards and also some information about the two owners. I would also want to know or see the entire process of making the wines
I can’t think of a more perfect trio than wine, seafood and sun! And in such a spectacular location. Loved the recap.
Tamshuk-have you never been to vineyards? You can start in California 🙂 it’s closer!
Paola- thanks! When will you be visiting Galicia? I just finished 3 days in Ribeira Sacra, a couple of days up North near Cathedral Beach and 2 days in Pontevedra. I’m practically Galician now! At least, my Galician boyfriend likes to tell me that 🙂
Alina- haha well you and my boyfriend have something in common. He cannot have more than a couple of glasses of wine either 🙂 But yes the food is fantastic, prices are great, and you can certainly spend a lovely time without over-imbibing!
Christina- sooo many people have never heard of Galicia! I was one of them until about a year ago when I got to know more Spaniards in Spain and kept hearing stories about this green, wet, beautiful area full of seafood and white wine. I knew I Had to go! I hope you’ll get there one day. The Camino de Santiago also ends in Galicia so you can combine hiking/backpacking with seafood-wine-sun 🙂
Stella-where do you live in the U.S? New York? You’ve got some great wine shops there with huge intl selections so you are lucky if so! NYC and Cali have the biggest markets for intl wine in the U.S. We are Spain’s biggest customer in the world
thank you Suanlee! yes, nothing is better than walking outdoors on a beautiful sunny day and tasting wine with the smell of the ocean in the air 🙂
Jenn-hahah you are right! My boyfriend is also from a small town in Galicia and he said the same thing 🙂 Though we got a lovely sunny day in Rinmo near Ribadeo as well a few days later so we were VERY fortunate 🙂 You’re lucky to be from such a gorgeous area that is still so much less insanely touristy than the rest of Spain. I adore Galicia (and Gallegos!)
Hi Tom, thank you! I actually I know many 2nd and 3rd generation winemakers and wine-making families in California! Of course with the French wineries I worked with it was more like 5th, 6th, 7th, 10th and so on (though there are quite a few 1st and 2nd generation in areas like Costieres du Nimes and other less historically re-knowned areas or areas that didn’t get high quality designations until now, as people moved in and bought vineyards). Rias Baixas isn’t a long standing high quality vineyard area historically it was only classified as a DO (Denominacion de Origen) in 1988 so many winemakers only started wineries and businesses making wine professionally in the 2000s or late 90’s. Before, most were just making table wines for their families (and in this area when you aren’t careful about the way you harvest and crush and ferment you can easily get low quality out of balance/overly alcoholic wines) if they happened to have fruit. Of course once a country slaps a quality designation on an area it’s finally ‘worth it’ to make wine to sell since you can command a good enough pricepoint and you will have an official dept in your region that helps to market it, bring customers, etc 🙂
Hi Ana, thanks 🙂 What country are St Augustine vineyards in?
thanks Ami! Yes, one of my favorite things about Galicia as a region, is how green it is. Of course that means it gets more rain and misty days than the rest of France…but I don’t mind! 🙂
Sounds like such a relaxed way of spending a holiday…experiencing the area and the atmosphere like a local. Refreshing and unusual.
Most of the people think that having a vineyard is quite a luxury (kind of a status symbol) but actually it is not. (or maybe! if they harvested good quality grapes, and makes everything into wines). What I mean is, a lot doesn’t know how hard it is to have vineyard, cultivated and maintained it, plus a lot of time and finances you have to invest to get a good quality grapes, that is good enough for wine making.
I have huge respects to these vineyard owners and its people. They put their full dedication and that’s truly amazing!
Blair-true! Especially in America we think having vineyards means you must be rich and that’s mostly because you do have to be rich these days to have a winery or vineyards! But even in California, there were plenty of folks who bought vineyards back in the 40’s, 50’s (Trentadue Family just to name one), 60’s and even 70s’ for very reasonable prices. They were not rich. It’s only after the explosion of wine and later Hollywood’s take-over of wine and the wine biz (with movies, shows, etc) that it became something only the elite could afford to be business owners in. I worked in the wine business for a long time, and it’s only getting harder and harder for the little guys to make it sadly (even internationally now). But, with the right publicity and awareness (and consumers being aware that you need to pay a decent price for wine from a small business that doesn’t make millions of bottles) hopefully we can hold on to at least some small business in the wine industry.
thanks Punita- yes that’s the only way I travel 🙂
Wine and sun is always a winning combination! Visiting vineyards is so lovely as they always have so much character to them! Lovely photos as well 🙂
This is a beautiful winery. I have only been to Barcelona so have not had the chance to experience the Spanish wineries. I love going to wineries and getting that personal service from a family-owned business that has been running for generations. Your photos are beautiful as well! Thanks for sharing this!
Janine-I def recommend visiting as many vineyards as possible when in Europe-of course in most places you need to pre-arrange it (unless it’s a bigger touristy place) because they don’t have the same type sales-marketing focused industry as we do in the U.S so most wineries don’t even have public tasting rooms that are open. However it’s usually possible to call ahead, make sure it’s ok and then taste with the owners/winemaker or a family member 🙂
What part of the world are you in now?
I have never been to Spain but I have tried couple of Spanish varieties and they taste very nice. Albarino with seafood sounds like a great pairing, and I respect how the owner of the winery takes so much effect to grow, foster the grapes and aging the wine, It looks like a beautiful industry but lots of behind-the-scene work involved to make the vineyard look so beautiful, and to produce the high-quality wines for us to enjoy.