Living La Vita Bella (and gluten free) in Lucca, Italy
I spent a month in Lucca last Spring and though I had misgivings at first, about how easy it would be to find specialty gluten-free foods outside of the giant supermarkets (which are all outside the historic center and not within walking distance) I was pleasantly surprised.
While certainly not on par with larger cities like Florence, Rome, Milan or Bologna for such a small city Lucca had a surprisingly decent selection of both places to buy gluten free products as well as to dine gluten-free.
It took a bit of research and some driving (and I didn’t have a car the entire time so I planned things accordingly) but I ended up finding some great options.
I’ve separated my recommendations by type of business.
Gluten Free Specialty Stores & Bakeries in Lucca
Mamey Lucca
This is the mothership of gluten-free products in Lucca. They have a massive selection of both packaged items (larger than I’d ever seen anywhere at the time with far more specialty brands than you’ll see in even the largest supermarket) as well as freshly made items such as handmade pastas, pizza crusts, pastries and breads (made by local bakers and gluten free producers such as Sabrina, Granozero and Laboratorio Graziosi). They even carry whole grain pastas and crackers (super rare!).
I found the prices on the super-specialty items such as fresh pastas (lasagna, raviolis, tagliatelle) and pizzas to be astronomical but if you are looking to stock up your Airbnb kitchen for the week with all of the items you’ll need in your gluten-free arsenal this is a great stop to make on your way into or out of town.
Address: Via Pisana 998
Phone: (Country code +39) 0583 418 651
Starbene Bakery
This 100% gluten free bakery in Lucca that also has a few other locations throughout Italy ( though it is like a franchise with different owners so don’t attempt to contact any store with a question about any other store-you won’t get an answer!).
This was the only 100% gluten free bakery I found in Lucca.
I dug their sandwich rolls, pizza and focaccia as well as their small baguettes. They also had lots of beautiful pastries and cakes but I didn’t partake in these as I like to hold out for gelato or chocolate and I find getting any bread at all for the day is enough for me!
Note: This isn’t a dine-in bakery. You grab your order and go.
Address: Via Catalani 200
Restaurants and Pizzerias
Il Grammofono
One of the most highly rated restaurants in Lucca, Grammofono also caters to celiacs. This includes preparing dishes that would normally contain hidden gluten (such as stuffed fish or meats) in a way that is naturally gluten free and doesn’t require sacrificing any flavor. Just communicate your allergy to the staff at Grammofono and let them take care of you.
Where: Via della Fratta 7
Ristorante Giglio
Inside the walls of Lucca. Ristorante Giglio has many options for celiacs and can adjust their tasting menu to cater to celiacs as well. They also serve fresh gluten free bread alongside your meal if you let them know about your allergy.
Where: Piazza Del Giglio 2
Mara Meo Pizzeria
Offer a gluten-free pizza crust (can order any of the regular pizzas on a gluten-free crust) and gluten-free beer option.
Where: Piazza San Francesco 17
Pizza Da Felice
A small, casual, buzzing and busy spot inside the walls. Probably the best gluten-free pizza option if comparing them all (crispy crust that tastes almost like normal pizza crust). Also known for their delicious chickpea cake (cecina), which is a naturally gluten-free Tuscan specialty.
Where: Via Buia 12
Felice Ristorante
These guys get rave reviews time and again for their gluten free pizza crusts. They also have whole grain and alternative grain options (such as kamut and spelt) for those who are not gluten free but looking for a slightly healthier pizza option as well as a gluten free beer option. This place is always packed so expect a wait if you go during Italian lunch hours!
Insider tip: try the cecina a local Tuscany specialty that is naturally gluten free (made of chickpea flour, water, oil and salt)
Where: Via Buonamici 352
Da Leo Pizzeria/Trattoria
Da Leo offers a gluten free pizza crust option with any of their topping combinations. They also have gluten free beer on the menu and the staff is very willing to cater to celiac needs. No need to go for a special ‘gluten free’ pizza here with the many other naturally gluten free items on the menu and the staffs’ awareness of what celiacs can/can’t eat but it’s always nice to have the option :).
Where: Via Tegrimi 1
Gelato/Gelaterias
Grom Lucca
Serves gelatos made with natural ingredients that are gluten free.
Gelateria De’ Coltelli
Serves gelatos made with natural ingredients that are gluten free.
Big Supermarkets
Coop
Has a good aisle of gluten free products including cereals, pastas, cookies, crackers, etc. but not as large or varied as the selection at Esselunga.
Esselunga
Has a huge selection of gluten free pastas in particular (at least ten different types) but also of gluten free products in general. I found this to be a great supermarket for stocking up on my pasta, gluten free flours (such as buckwheat, rice and garbanzo) and picking up Schar packaged breads to carry with me. Need a car to get here as there are no big supermarkets like this within city walls-just small versions with very little selection.
Natural Bio/Eco markets
Natura Si
Good for those who have particular diets and want to pick up items such as agave syrup, almond butter, special flours or grains, coconut milk, etc or simply want to eat 100% organic and plant based diets. Warning: you will pay very high prices here.
Where: Viale Carlo Del Prete 347
Additional Resources
[Schär] Gluten Free Roads App
This app by Schär (one of largest gluten-free food producers in world) is great for locating gluten free food nearby! You can look ahead for the day to see where the closest gluten-free pizza spots or restaurants are located and call to make reservations or confirm what their GF options are. The site doesn’t have great coverage in small villages or less traveled to regions (like most locator apps) but in regions such as Tuscany or nearby major cities such as Rome, Milan or Bologna it’s a fantastic resource.
Find the app on your iPhone, Android or other phone and download it, or head to their website if you prefer to research from your computer.
Italian Celiac Association Website
The Italy chapter’s website of the worldwide celiac assocation. You can always find valuable information on these sites such as doctors who specialize in celiac disease, medicines to watch out for (that may contain gluten) as well as resources for finding local restaurants and gluten free products.
